StopTech   
  
  StopTech Products  

FAQs

  
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Who is StopTech LLC?

StopTech LLC was founded in March of 1999 as a brake technology company. The founding partners come from backgrounds in racing, engineering and manufacturing, including racecar design and fabrication, brake component manufacturing and performance aftermarket distribution. StopTech has filed four patents in basic brake technology, which are utilized in the products we manufacture. We have been awarded US patent # 6,302,243 B1 for our Caliper Stiffening Bridge design and US patent # 6357561 for our Ceramic Rotor Floating Hat System. The other two patents are still pending.

We design and manufacture our own race quality AeroRotors® and calipers, as well as all our other big brake kit components. Located in Torrance, California, StopTech is positioned to continue developing and delivering the most technically advanced brake products available for racing and the performance aftermarket. Our rotors are made at ISO-9001 and QS9000 registered facilities.

Why do I need a big brake upgrade?

Modern stock brake systems, for the most part, work well for a single 60-0 or 80-0 stop, and average daily street driving. The typical performance enthusiast will quickly push the stock brake system beyond its capabilities. Driving style and other performance modifications such as increased horsepower, tire and suspension upgrades quickly add up to overpowering stock brakes. A big brake kit will provide increased heat capacity, which means substantially more resistance to brake fade and caliper distortion with multiple stops from high speed. A firmer pedal due to stronger and stiffer components, as well as better modulation characteristics under threshold braking are also typical with a properly balanced brake upgrade.

Why choose a StopTech brake upgrade?

StopTech is the only manufacturer that specifically designs and tests each application to optimize the front to rear brake balance of the vehicle. By sizing the caliper pistons properly for each platform, we are able to optimize the performance and feel of each kit. By maintaining the proper piston sizing and balance, our kits perform virtually seamlessly with the stock master cylinder and ABS systems.

Every component of a StopTech kit is the best in its class in terms of design, material selection and quality. Our ST-40 four-piston caliper utilizes our unique Patented bolt-in bridge, making it three times stiffer than comparable calipers. A stiffer caliper means less vibration and noise, and better pedal feel due to less flexing. Street versions of the caliper utilize dust boots, and our pad configuration allows use of a commonly available wear sensor.

Our Patent Pending AeroRotors® are manufactured at QS-9000 registered facilities. They flow more air than any other rotor available, meaning less brake fade and longer rotor and pad life. All AeroRotors® are precision machined and mill balanced to ensure race ready performance right out of the box.

StopTech uses 7075-T6 billet aluminum, the strongest aluminum available, for the hats we produce. Hats and rotors are pre-assembled using a floating drive system with our unique Inconel® spring washer anti-rattle system. The floating system allows for rotor expansion due to heat and will virtually eliminate rotor warping.

What do I get with my StopTech big brake kit?

StopTech big brake kits are complete and ready to install. An aluminum two-, four- or six-piston caliper (depending on application) with pistons sized specifically for the target vehicle preserving balance and ABS compatibility. Also included is a pair of race quality AeroRotors®, pre-assembled to 7075-T6 billet aluminum hats with full floating and anti-rattle hardware. A pair of caliper mounting brackets with stainless steel mounting studs pre-installed (note both hats and brackets are hard black anodized) are included, as well as stainless steel brake lines engineered to be properly and safely routed for each application. A set of high performance street pads completes the package. All mounting hardware and a set of illustrated instructions are also included.

Do I need a proportioning valve with a StopTech Big Brake Kit?

In a word, no. Because StopTech manufactures calipers with the correct piston diameters for each application, our kits will work with your stock master cylinder and stock pressure limiting valve (often called proportioning valve). There is no need to modify or remove the pressure-limiting valve, and no additional proportioning valve is needed. A StopTech kit will also work with your ABS and traction control systems (improperly designed upgrades can confuse the ABS)

Do I have to make any modifications to my car to install your big brake kit?

StopTech strives to design their kits to require no modifications to the vehicle. In the rare occasion where modification may be necessary, detailed instructions are included to guide you through the modifications. Typical modifications might be a slight clearance of the upright where the caliper bracket attaches and trimming or removal of the dust shield/splash guard plate. In some instances, a more dramatic modification may be necessary, which will be thoroughly outlined in the installation manual.

Why is the pad and rotor break-in procedure so important?

PROPER BREAK-IN OF ROTORS AND PADS IS CRITICAL. Not properly doing so can cause permanent damage to rotors and adversely effect overall brake performance. Pads and rotors interact with each other to provide efficient brake performance. The break-in or bed-in procedure is done to condition the pad/rotor interface. Depending on the pad used, more or less pad material is uniformly transferred onto the disc as a thin film. The resins and bonding agents in some pads need to be heat cycled to work properly as well. By not properly bedding in pads, uneven pad material deposits can occur that may cause a vibration. Improper wear characteristics may also show up on either the pads, or rotors, or both. Always follow the recommended break-in procedure for any pads, rotors or brake systems. This link is to the Technical page of our website. The article titled The "Warped" Brake Disc and other Myths of the Braking System has more details about the effect of the pad and rotor together

Can I install a StopTech big brake kit on my own?

If you are comfortable doing a brake change (pads and rotors, bleeding the brakes), and have a basic knowledge of working on cars, installation of a StopTech big brake kit will not be too challenging, in fact it will probably be one of the most gratifying upgrades you perform. Every kit includes detailed illustrated instructions, and our Customer Service staff is technically trained to assist you should any questions arise. If you choose to have a qualified mechanic do the work, they should have no problem, and again, we are available to answer any questions. A typical first time installation will take 2-3 hours per axle. In some instances where modifications to the suspension may be necessary, special tools or skills may be required. If any operations seem beyond your skill level, StopTech will gladly help you find a distributor who can also handle your installation needs.

What kind of brake fluid should I use?

As with brake pads, there are several choices of quality brake fluids available. Generally a DOT 4 fluid is sufficient for street use, any quality name brand or OE brake fluid will be sufficient. If running on an open track, you might want to step up to a racing brake fluid with higher dry and wet boiling points. StopTech recommends Motul 600 due to its higher boiling point and almost universal compatibility with OE brake systems. Though priced quite a bit higher, Castrol SRF brake fluid is recognized as the best available brake fluid for professional racing due to its patented and unique chemical composition. The SRF fluid will need to be more frequently changed as well and is not recommended for the typical street/occasional track day customer.

A bigger pad means better braking, right?

A bigger pad of the same compound in the same location as a smaller pad will not yield shorter stopping distances. The amount of pressure applied, pad friction coefficient, and the diameter on the rotor at which that pressure is applied, determine the torque reaction, or stopping force. A bigger pad does not apply more pressure, only the same pressure over a bigger area. Where the size of the pad matters is in terms of heat capacity and wear rate. A larger pad will absorb more initial heat (less thermal shock), and have better wear characteristics (longer pad life). The technical page of our web site has several articles discussing brake dynamics: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/tech_white_papers.shtml

Will a StopTech kit fit my stock wheel?

Whether a kit fits a stock wheel is dependent on the specific application. Our ST-40 four-piston caliper usually requires a minimum 17" wheel size for a 332mm (13") rotor and a minimum 18" wheel for a 355mm (14") rotor. If a 380mm (15") rotor is uses, a 19" minimum wheel size is likely necessary. More important than the diameter is the clearance between the face of the caliper and the inside of the wheel spokes. Wheel width and offset have nothing to do with this clearance area; it is strictly a function of the spoke design. We have detailed templates on our website that will allow you to accurately test fit any wheel. Be sure you check wheel fitment BEFORE committing to a wheel set or big brake upgrade.

Isn't the StopTech ST-40 caliper is the same as a Brembo or Porsche Big Red?

The ST-40 is a completely new caliper designed specifically to perform on the street and track. The Patented "Bolt-in" Bridge is unique to our design, making the ST-40 two times stiffer than the competition. The ST-40 offers 8 different piston diameters to choose from, so the caliper can be made to specifically balance any application. The ST-40 can be made to fit from 28 to 35mm thick rotors and 328 to 380mm rotor diameters. Dust boots are standard on all street calipers, and commonly available pad wear sensors can be used. Though the ST-40 will mount in the same place as a Brembo F-40 or F-50 caliper and uses common pistons and seals, it is a superior caliper in terms of stiffness, versatility and price. Porsche Big Red calipers have a taller pad and require a larger rotor annulus (heavier rotor). While this taller pad sometimes lasts longer, for a given rotor and piston size the brake torque is less.

What are differential bores?

Differential piston bores are used to control brake pad taper. As incandescent material and debris from the leading edge of the pad is trapped between the pad and rotor, it tends to float the trailing edge of the pad off the rotor. A larger piston at the trailing edge of the pad provides more pressure to compensate for this debris buildup and keep the pad flat against the rotor.

Won't bigger caliper pistons stop better?

A bigger set of caliper pistons will provide more clamping pressure on that axle, but could have a negative effect on total brake performance. If the pistons are too large for the application there will be excessive pedal travel and an adverse change in front to rear balance resulting in extended stopping distances. Also, clamping forces can easily become so strong that pre-mature lock-up will occur making brake modulation difficult. StopTech is the only big brake kit manufacturer building our own calipers specifically for each application while maintaining or improving system balance.

Which is better, slotted or drilled rotors?

StopTech provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street and occasional light duty track use they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors.

How do I tell what direction the rotors go on the car?

(Driver's perspective looking forward)

The StopTech AeroRotors® are directional. If they are not installed on the proper side of the vehicle, airflow will be restricted and cooling will be severely diminished. The vanes on a rotor act like a centrifugal air fan, drawing air from the inside of the rotor and flowing it to the outside. The vanes of a directional rotor should arch back like arms on a pinwheel. On the top side of the rotor, the vanes should curve toward the back of the car.


(Driver's perspective looking forward)

The slots on StopTech AeroRotors are cut in the OPPOSITE direction of the vanes. The pattern on a drilled AeroRotor also has the same appearance. The direction of the slots or hole pattern should not be used to determine what side of the vehicle to place a rotor. Different manufacturers may have different strategies for slot and hole patterns.

The only correct way to determine what side a directional rotor goes on is the internal vane direction.

Do Brake upgrades affect Downhill braking and ABS?

Q: I experienced a situation on track where I think my ABS brakes locked up on me. I was going downhill, slowing from 100mph down to 30mph mph to make the turn at the bottom. I did my usual deep-into-the-turn-hard-braking and suddenly my front brakes locked up into a hard skid for what felt like a full second. They then let loose but then did it again. Fortunately I had already scrubbed off enough speed so I didn't end up going into the woods at the end of the braking zone, but this was certainly an unwanted thrill. I have heard that this is a "known" problem for big brake kits on my car. What is going on? Is this the brakes, the ABS, or something else?

A: This is a question that is asked of every brake component manufacturer - OEM's included. From this description, it appears the car was being asked to do more than it was capable of doing.

First, if the yellow ABS lamp never came on, then there was not an ABS failure. ABS lights (for hardware-related failures) do not 'go out' until after the car has been turned off and then restarted. This indicates quite clearly that the ABS was functioning as designed.

Second, if you are trail braking as heavily as described, then the inside tires will be heavily unloaded by the weight transfer effect. This means the inside tires cannot sustain maximum braking (the friction circle concept) and brake pressure must be released from these tires; however, because the tires are unloaded they will tend to 'drag' or 'slide' at higher slip levels (maybe 15-20% slip) which creates a screeching sound similar to a locked tire. The driver's perception is that the tires are locked (defined as 100% slip) because (a) there is an increase in tire noise and (b) there is a deceleration loss because the car can't turn and brake at maximum deceleration at the same time. What is really going on is that the inside tires are at 20% slip and making a fuss about it. The 'surging' feeling is the ABS relying primarily on the outside front wheel for deceleration. Because it is doing almost all of the stopping, the ABS pressure cycling feeling is more pronounced, hence the 'brakes-on, brakes-off' sensation.

We have received questions very, very similar to this one for vehicles both with and without braking system modifications. After actually spending time in cars on the track, we find almost universally that the driver expects the car to turn and brake simultaneously at maximum cornering/braking. Regardless of your braking system and/or its modifications, the tire is the limiting factor. When we track our cars we must work within the confines of the laws of physics - and it doesn't matter who designed your braking system.

2-Piece Racing Rotor Floating Pin Design VS. 2-Piece "Euro-Rotor" Floating Design

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Fixed vs. Floating Rotor Systems

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What pads fit in the StopTech ST-40 caliper?

The StopTech ST-40 caliper is designed to use a pad from various Porsche models including the 944 Turbo, 1991-1994 911 series, 1992 968 and 1986-1991 928.

Numerous manufacturers make different compounds from street to full race applications for this pad shape. The Friction Materials Standards Institute (FMSI) establishes a numbering system for pad shapes in virtually every vehicle sold in North America so that cross referencing the various OE part numbers can be vastly simplified. Some pad manufacturers have a cross reference between their numbering system and the FMSI number, but others still do not provide such a tool.

The FMSI number for the pad used in the StopTech ST-40 caliper is D372.

Pad Shape

Over the years, Porsche has consolidated certain pads with slightly different backing plate shapes. Though these pads that Porsche consolidated will all fit in a Porsche caliper, they will NOT all work in the ST-40 due to the tighter tolerances of our bridge and pad retaining system. Other FMSI numbers used for similar pads are D447 and D609. While this reference may work with some pad suppliers, only a D372 pad is assured of fitting the StopTech ST-40 caliper.

Here is a list of manufacturer's part numbers that will fit our caliper (X denotes pad compound):

Axxis: DB439
EBC: DPX767 (uses D447 as FMSI cross reference)
Ferodo Race Pads: FCP560
Ferodo Street Pads: FDB560
Hawk Performance: HB141X.650
Mintex: MDB1456
Pagid: U1204
Performance Friction: 0447.XX.17.44
Porterfield: APS-4
Raybestos Race Pad: R609
SBA: 3041.X.X

Note the number represents the SHAPE of the pad, NOT the compound. You will need to check with each individual manufacturer for the complete p/n of a certain compound, but the numbers above will be part of each. The letter "X" represents the portion of the number you'll need to fill in for the compound.

Also note, Porsche has consolidated all their pads sold through the dealerships to a number that will NOT fit in our caliper. Strange as it may seem, the only place you can't get a pad for our ST-40 caliper is from a Porsche dealer.

We have recently introduced brake kits for SUV's that use a 380mm (15") rotor. With these kits, we use a modified version of our caliper called the ST-45. This caliper does use the pad available from the dealership, NOT the other pads listed above. The Porsche OE number for the ST-45 pad is 993-351-939-01.

For more detailed pad information, please follow this link.

If you have questions about pads for our brake systems, or want a pad from a different manufacturer not listed, please contact us at sales@stoptech.com.

How many pads are in a "set" of pads?

Pads are typically sold as an Axle set; that is, there are enough pads for both corners of the front or rear in a single box of pads. If you buy a front set of pads, you will get the proper number of pads for both front calipers, same for a rear set of pads, you get enough pads for both rear calipers.

Is it better to remove the Dust Shield/Splash Guard?

In some cases, the splash guard (sometimes called a dust shield) may need to be trimmed or removed in order to install a bigger brake upgrade. This piece is typically made of stamped sheet metal and is designed to keep debris out of the inside of the rotor and water from splashing directly on the inner rotor face. While both functions can be beneficial on a street-car, on a track driven vehicle, the standard factory shield may actually hamper performance by hurting cooling. Practically any debris that can get to the inside of a rotor can typically also get out. If it is not necessary to remove the shields for installation of a brake kit, you might consider doing so anyway to help cooling. Sometimes the shield can even be incorporated into a cooling duct, helping route air directly to the inside of the rotor where it will have the most cooling effect.

What pad will work best for both street and track use?

This is likely the most often asked question, and there is no single clear-cut answer. The actual answer is no pad will work "best" in both environment's, there will always be a compromise in one area of operation. Pads are asked to do a number of different tasks in different situations. You need to ask yourself which of the following are most important to your particular driving style. When you understand the variables, you will be better able to pick the best pad.

1. COLD STOPPING PERFORMANCE. How well does the pad grip on the first stop when the system is at ambient temperature?
2. HOT STOPPING PERFORMANCE. How the pad reacts in higher temperature such as on the track?
3. PAD LIFE. How long will the pads last in a given driving environment?
4. ROTOR LIFE. How aggressive is the pad on the rotor, will it groove the surface?
5. NOISE. Does the pad squeal?
6. DUST. How much dust does the pad generate, how easy is it to clean?
7. COST. Is the pad affordable compared to how it performs?

If you must run one pad on both the street and the track, you will have to compromise performance in one way or another on all the above. We suggest changing to a track worthy pad for track events, with a proper bed-in before the event. The system will need to be bedded-in again when the street pads are re-installed. See the FAQ covering "What do you mean by uneven pad deposition" for more information on bedding pads.

How do I retract the caliper pistons to change pads?

As brake pads wear, the caliper pistons extend from the body of the caliper but only retract a few thousandths of an inch so the pads stay close to the rotor face. When installing new pads, the pistons need to be pushed back into the caliper body. This can be done in several ways and does not necessarily require special tools. With any method of pad retraction, be careful not to nick the face of the aluminum piston where it contacts the backing plate of the pad. First off, the rotor is typically loose on the hub with the wheel removed. By rocking the rotor back and forth it will push back the pistons enough to make removing the used pads easier. This is especially true if rotor wear is such that there is a raised ridge on the outer edge of the rotor face keeping the pad from easily coming out the top of the caliper. Our most convenient method to fully retract the pistons is to use the used pads being removed from the caliper as a lever. Remove one pad from the caliper while leaving the other used pad in place. Turn the pad 90 degrees and re-insert half way it into the caliper lengthwise with the pad face still toward the rotor. Using the outer edge of the rotor against the center of the pad, use the pad as a lever to press both pistons in at the same time. Retract both pistons at the same time, or the one not being pushed in will extend further. Push the pads in as far as possible, remove the used pad and install the new pad. Repeat on the other side of the caliper. In retracting the first pair of pistons, the opposite pair of pistons where the other used pad is may extend, pressing the pad against the rotor. Rock the rotor again to move the pad away again. You can also use alternate tools to push in the pistons. I have also used the plastic coated handles on a pair of pliers or channel locks, which allow me to press both pistons at the same time and not nick the piston face. There are special tools available to retract the pistons, however unless you are a professional crew person making a hot swap in the middle of a race, it is likely not necessary. If you have trouble retracting the pistons, you can crack open one of the bleed screws with a hose leading to a tray or bottle and it will ease the resistance. You will need to bleed the system if you open the bleed screw. Also, keep an eye on the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. If the system was bled and topped off when the pads were worn, you might push enough fluid back through the system to overflow the master cylinder.

What do you mean by "uneven pad deposition?"

Virtually all modern brake pads are what are referred to as an Adherent type of pad. The pad is designed to transfer a layer of pad material onto the rotor. When a sufficient and EVEN layer of pad material is adhered to the rotor face, the pad material on the rotor, interacting with the similar material on the pad, creates the most efficient friction mechanism. These like materials, breaking against each other on a molecular level are what really stops the car well. To emphasize, there is supposed to be a layer of material pad material on the rotor. The problems occur if the pads are not properly bedded-in (an even layer of pad material on the rotor) and run aggressively, OR if the pads are overheated (street pads on the track like we tell 37 people a week NOT to do). The pad transfer occurs most efficiently at the pads optimal operating temperature. That means a higher temperature pad needs to be hotter to properly transfer material. If you have a high performance pad and never run it hot enough to get a proper layer of material onto the rotor, it will never be properly bedded-in. Thus, even after 1000 miles of "normal" street driving, when you blast your favorite canyon and heat the brakes, you can get uneven deposits on the rotor causing a vibration. The other common scenario is over-heating the pads even if they are properly bedded-in. In this case, the pad material starts to break down and smear onto the rotor face, again causing the UN-EVEN deposits. The other problem that occurs is if the system is really hot and you come to a complete stop and leave your foot on the brake pedal. In this instance, we get what is called "pad imprinting" where a small layer of material breaks off the surface of the pad and literally can be seen as an imprint of the pad on the rotor face. This can occur no matter the state of bed-in. All these scenarios leave very small, uneven layers (we call it TV, Thickness Variation) of material on the rotor. We're talking a few 10/1000's of an inch, like a TV of 0.0003". It starts out almost imperceptibly, but as the pads start to skip over the high spots, more material is deposited on those areas, ever increasing the vibration until it becomes quite noticeable, even days after the event that started it occurred. The best way to avoid these problems is proper bed-in of the system initially, and using the proper pads for your exact driving conditions. If you are planning on swapping pads for a track day, you need to re-bed the system before the event (or dedicate the first track session to bed-in). Remember, you have that layer of street pad material adhered to the rotor face, and if you don't remove and replace it with the track pad material, it is going to degrade from the heat and... yep, cause uneven pad deposits. Same goes when you put the street pads back in, you need to re-bed them for optimal street performance. The article on the Technical page titled "The Warped Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System" is an excellent source of information: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

My car judders when I apply the brakes, what can I do to fix it?

In order to understand the likely cause of the judder, please see the FAQ relating to un-even pad deposition. OK, now that you hopefully better understand why the steering wheel is shaking out of your hand, what can be done to cure it? Turning the rotors will take care of it, but you will be shortening the life of the rotor and decreasing its ability to absorb and control heat, as there will be less mass in the rotor after turning. Also, turning a 2-piece rotor that uses floating attachment hardware between the rotor and hat can be tricky. We have had very good success running an aggressive track pad at lower temperatures on the street in order to scrub off the rotor surface. We have found the Hawk Blue 9012 race pad to be very effective. At lower temperatures it is very ABRASIVE, not becoming ADHERENT until it reaches it's optimal operating temperature. If it is used with a few firm stops at a time, not getting too hot (we want to remove material, not transfer more), it will often remove the source of vibration. A WARNING: Do not leave an abrasive pad in the caliper longer than necessary to solve the problem. We have had rotors destroyed in under a week by leaving the abrasive track pads in on the street.

How much is the shipping cost of a big brake kit?

To estimate your shipping costs, find the weight below that corresponds to your big brake kit. Click on http://wwwapps.ups.com/QCCWebApp/request?loc=en_US and use Torrance, CA 90505 as the shipment origin. Enter the zip code where you want the kit to be shipped in the destination field. Once you estimate the cost, multiply it by two to get an estimate of your total shipping cost for a front big brake kit. If you are ordering a 4-wheel kit, use the same steps for the rear kit (rear rotors may be a different size than the front).

Box Dimensions
The dimensions of each box is 16 in. by 14 in. by 13 in.

Shipping Weights
328mm Big Brake Kit = approximately 32 lbs. per corner
332mm Big Brake Kit = approximately 35 lbs. per corner
355mm Big Brake Kit = approximately 37 lbs. per corner

NOTE: There may be freight surcharges and slightly higher costs for residential delivery. Shipping costs for additional items, such as brake fluid or pad wear sensors, are not included in the above estimate.

How do I adapt a factory pad wear sensor to a StopTech big brake kit?

A pad wear sensor is designed to detect when the brake pads are near the end of their life. The warning depth is set by the manufacturer at about 2 mm above the absolute limit of pad wear. There are 2 common types of sensors, mechanical and electronic. Mechanical sensors consist of a soft, metal tab attached to the pad that rubs on the rotor, creating an audible squeal when the pad needs replacement. Electronic sensors trigger a warning light or text message on the instrument panel. Not all cars have pad electronic or mechanical wear sensing capabilities. If an aftermarket pad has wear sensing capability, it is a copy of the OEM design. There is not any reasonable way to upgrade a car that does not have this feature or to convert the metal tab type to the electronic type. With electronic pad sensors, when the pad wears to its warning thickness, the rotor rubs through the sensor’s insulating cover, either creating a short circuit or breaking a thin wire and opening a circuit, depending on the vehicle manufacturer’s design. This, in turn, triggers a warning display on the dashboard . StopTech sells a kit, which allows vehicles equipped with our Big Brake Kit to take advantage of the factory electronic warning system. The kit consists of a sensor that plugs into the pad and high temperature twist-on wire connectors to adapt the sensor to the vehicle’s factory wiring harness. The vehicle-side plug must be supplied by the customer, but can often be re-used from the original sensor on the stock brakes. Instructions to perform this conversion are included in our installation manual. The Pad Wear Sensor Installation Manual contains additional details: http://www.stoptech.com/installationmanuals/padwearsensormanual.pdf

What pads fit the stock WRX calipers?

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Can a dealership deny me a warranty claim because I upgraded to the StopTech brake system?

Information provided in this FAQ provided by SEMA.org.

Federal Warranty Laws

The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act (15 U.S.C. 2302(C))
This federal law regulates warranties for the protection of consumers. The essence of this law concerning aftermarket auto parts is that a vehicle manufacturer may not condition a written or implied warranty on the consumers using parts or services which are identified by brand, trade, or corporate name (such as the vehicle makers brand) unless the parts or service are provided free of charge. The law means that the use of an aftermarket part alone is not cause for denying the warranty. However, the law's protection does not extend to aftermarket parts in situations where such parts actually caused the damage being claimed under the warranty. Further, consumers are advised to be aware of any specific terms or conditions stated in the warranty which may result in its being voided. The law states in relevant part:

“No warrantor of a consumer product may condition his written or implied warranty of such product on the consumers using, in connection with such product, any article or service (other than article or service provided without charge under the terms of the warranty) which is identified by brand, trade or corporate name....” (15 U.S.C. 2302(C)).

> Tips on dealing with an unfair warranty denial

Will StopTech Stainless Steel Brake Lines work on my car?

StopTech Stainless Steel Brake Lines are designed as direct replacement parts for stock brake lines. The replacement lines typically follow the same routing as the stock lines. While the design is tolerant of slight modifications to the intended vehicle, any excessive lowering or raising of the vehicle may make the lines unsuitable for use on that particular car, truck, or SUV. Also, the lines include provisions for routing attachments on the stock suspension, such as brackets on the strut. If an aftermarket suspension is on the vehicle, the stock mounting points may not be on those components. If alternate routing or modifications are required, it is the sole responsibility of the installer to assure that the lines are not binding or touching any part of the suspension or drive train. Inspect the line routing through the entire range of suspension travel, both up and down and left-to-right. If there is any question as to whether or not the install is correct, do not drive the vehicle until there is absolute assurance the lines are safely routed. If you have any questions, please contact StopTech Customer Service at (310) 325-4799 x105 or e-mail support@stoptech.com

Maintenance of Hat & Rotor Assemblies Used in High Salt Environments

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What pads fit in the StopTech ST-60 caliper?

The StopTech ST-60 caliper is designed to use a pad that is also common to various Alcon and AP racing calipers.

Various manufacturers make different compounds from street to full race applications for this pad shape as shown below. The Friction Materials Standards Institute (FMSI) establishes a numbering system for pad shapes in virtually every vehicle sold in North America. As the pad shape for the ST-60 was only used prior in racing calipers, the FMSI had not yet assigned a number, however an application for a number assignment has been made.

Here is a list of manufacturer's part numbers that will fit our ST-60 caliper (X denotes pad compound):

Ferodo: 11 FRP3054X-N
Hawk Performance: HB122X.710
Performance Friction: 7793.XX.18.44
Pagid: E1903 XXX 010

Note the number represents the SHAPE of the pad, NOT the compound. The complete part number for specific compounds will vary, but the numbers above will be part of each. The letter "X" represents the portion of the number you'll need to fill in for the compound.

For more detailed pad information, please follow this link.

If you have questions about pads for our brake systems, or want a pad from a different manufacturer not listed, please contact us at sales@stoptech.com.

 

   
     

 

      
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